Friday, January 16, 2009

The Anomaly Bali

As I'm sitting here writing this, I'm listening to the chants and gamelan music coming from a nearby temple. There is a ceremony taking place today which involves the blessing of all machinery: motobikes, cars, factories, etc. (a motorbike with the offerings and decorations showing it has been blessed -->)

As you know, Bali is an island which makes up part up the Indonesian archipelago, which consists of about 17, 508 islands. Indonesia has a large population with about 240 million people holding SIM (identification) cards. Out of that massive population, 86% claim to the Muslim religion.

There are 300 cultural groups in Indonesia, and five government-accepted religions which include: Islam, Hindu, Catholic, Protestant, and Buddhist, but Confucianism is also making more of an appearance.

So within this very Muslim strip of islands in Southeast Asia there's the "tropical playground" of Bali.

Bali Bali Bali.

With a population of over 3 million (on an island that could fit into Alberta over 100 times) Bali boasts 93% of the population adhering to the Hindu religion, which is influenced by Indian Hinduism, Buddhism, and animism. The other 7% is made up of muslims (4.75%), Christians (1.38%) and Buddhists (0.64%). Bali is far from fitting in with the Indonesian Islamic islands.

Hinduism in Bali includes a complicated mix of gods, goddesses, ancestors, and demons. For the sake of space of confusing both myself, and maybe even you, I'll just try to briefly tell you what being a Balinese Hindu looks like on a daily basis, from what I have observed, read and been taught.


There are hundreds of different gods, which represent aspects of three, and all three are one. The three are Brahma, the creator; Vishnu, the sustainer; and Shiva, the destroyer. Hindus want to keep a balance of good and evil in their lives, represented by the ying-yang symbol and popular black-and-white checkered cloth here. Ancestors also play a huge role in Bali Hinduism. (an example of a temple shrine where offerings are made-->)

Offerings must be made repeatedly on a daily basis, before anything is done. Before women do anything else in the day they make offerings for the day. You can also buy the daily offerings at stores along the side of the road or even at the supermarket. You will see offerings made on the ground (to appease the evil spirits) at entrances to houses, on the beach, on the sidewalk in front of stores, and at any intersection along a road or walkway. There are also offerings made to the good gods- which are not placed on the ground. These will be made anywhere you can think of: on fences, dashboards, cash registers, kitchen counters, in shrines on the wall...

There are temple shrines anywhere you can think of too; along the road, in the middle of intersections, and a number of them in every family home. Every family house or compound has a temple, and the ancestors and protectors of the family dwell there.

The offerings generally consist of certain colors of flowers and rice (a small portion of everything will be offered), and depending where it is sometimes a money bill, candy, or crackers. The person making the offering- usually but not always a woman- goes to make it, they dress unformally traditional: a sarong and a sash tied around the waist, they place the offering, sprinkle it with holy water, burn incense, waft the fumes around, and say a prayer. The offering is then left there, sometimes for days, but the god only takes the essence of the flowers, incence, and candy so any food that is there can be eaten after it has been offered, and money can be used. (offerings on the beach)

Prayer to the gods is a daily activity. Prayer involves a ritual of washing hands with a plant, praying to the creator with the appropriate flower between their hands, then praying to the sustainer, then the destroyer. You can ask these gods whatever you would like, and thanksgiving and worship is included. After praying with the flowers, they put it behind their ear, then after all the prayers are made they are sprinkled with holy water, and rice is stuck on their foreheads or below their neck. It is a common site to see people with rice on their foreheads and flowers behind their ears. (<-- offering prayers)

The traditional dress for Bali Hindus to go to temple in includes sarongs and blouses. The women wear a single sarong and a beautifully laced and fitted blouse called a kebaya, and a sash wrapped around their waist, and their hair is pulled back. The men wear a long sarong, with a shorter one over it, and a loose button-up shirt, or a tshirt, as well as a head covering. The colors of the shirts depend on what the ceremony is for, but generally they are a variety of different colors. (some men in traditional dress -->)

There are not the same regulations in Bali as are present in other areas of Indonesia. Women are allowed to dress how they wish, and although men are seen as 'above' women, there aren't rules about who can talk to who and eye contact. However, the caste system does still exist and the
level of the Balinese (there are three levels) one would use to talk to another reflects a small portion of that. drug and alcohol use and abuse are common .

The tourist industry has a strong influence in Bali. Having a good job in tourism in the main cities is the equivalent to the "American dream". The 'free island living' is promoted and "relax, you're on the island" is a common phrase among expatriates. A line in Bali's theme songs is this... "welcome to my paradise, where you can be free...".
I could go on. The more I learn and experience about this island, its cultures and paradoxes, the more interesting I find that stuck in the middle of one of the most populated Islamic nations is this peculiar little island that is constantly confusing and astounding me.


Disclaimer: This is based on my own research, understanding and observing. I don't claim to know all about Bali or Indonesia, and I may not be correct on all points; I've only been here 6 months.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Singapura


I spent two days in Singapore because I had to get out of Indonesia for visa reasons. I spent two days walking around a city in Asia, and my feet weren't black at the end of the day. Nice.



Singapore is a pretty cool place. It is extremely easy to get around in because everything is very well signed and makes sense. They have great public transportation. But don't get caught smoking on the MRT because the fine is $1000, and don't dare eat or drink because you'll get fined $500. No durians allowed either.

I stayed at the YMCA International House in a hostel room. It was a small room and didn't have anything fancy, but it was cheap at about CAD$30/night.


The first day I was in Singapore I took the train to Little India, which was really neat. I did some shopping, enjoyed the rich smells, and the explosions of color of the buildings, shops, and women in their saris. I ate some great Indian food there too, and also met a nice waiter who told me about some other great places in Singapore that I was sure to check out. Oh, and I had a slurpee from 7/11!!!
After Little India I went to Sentosa, which is a little resort island (sounds like Bali, but its not like Bali...) In Sentosa I went to their Marine Park, where you can walk through a tunnel and sharks and all these other big and little fish swim all around you, and also to their dolphin show, which was pretty impressive. I had dinner at Subway, which was a highlight of the day because just last week we were talking about how much we wanted Subway... and then I ate at one. After dinner I went to the show called "Song of the Sea" which was reeaally cool. They use water spry as a screen and can project images onto it, and there were fireworks and fireballs and lazers too! The plot of the story was very lacking... but the effects were amazing!




Oh ya! Best flights EVER. Singapore Airlines is amazing and on both the flights to Singapore and back were less than half full (or more than half empty?) so on both trips I had the whole row to myself. Senang sekali!

Sidebar: I've been trying to figure out what the name "Singapore" means, I'm pretty sure the real name for the city is "Singapura" which I can kind of make sense out of because it might be based on Malay, which is really close to Indonesian and "singa" is lion, and "pura" is temple. "Lion Temple" maybe? Would make sense cause the symbol for Singapore seems to be a lion. Hmm.
Ok, I looked it up. I was right about "Singa" but in Malay "Pura" apparently means city- so it's Lion City! Thank you very much Wikipedia.

"Welcome to My Paradise"


I hope you all had a fantastic Christmas and New Years. I know I did. Let me fill you in on what I've been up to...

Before Christmas, my friend Sammy came down here from Thailand. We had a lot of fun together doing all the tourist-type things and traveling around Bali. We went to Kuta, the main tourist center (for various reasons I have 2 nicknames for Kuta: "North America" and "Soddom and Gamorah") and tried our hands at surfing. We also saw the oldest temple complex in Bali, went to the mountains, saw a cloud-covered volcano and other things like that. We also spent a few nights at a resort in North Bali where we swam with dolphins (I still have bruises from this), dolphin watched in the ocean with a wanna-be cowboy captain, and snorkelled in some great coral.


Jealous yet?

Selamat Natal! The Sunday before Christmas the kids performed a song and an acrostic poem. Despite the fact that 3/4s of the kids hadn't been there for the past month
and therefore didn't know what we were doing, I think it went off well and made some parents happy! We had a great Christmas Eve service and the building was packed with about 120 people sitting, and another 30 people standing in the back. It was a very unique service, with some traditional elements, but Indonesian elements as well including a gamelan performance and Bali-style dance. After the service some of the young adults stuck around, ate nasi goreng (fried rice) and watched A Christmas Carol. Christmas day me and Sammy went with Bob and Ann to the beach where we had breakfast ad enjoyed the hot Bali sun. Then we went to the house and sat in the pool, and finished off the day with a great meal. On the 26th we joined a family for a traditional turkey dinner. So even though it was insanely hot, we walked in white sand-not white snow, and I didn't get to wear my new fleece pj's to bed Christmas eve, I had a great Christmas relatively free of homesickness; its definitely a Christmas I won't be forgetting soon.



Selamat Tahun Baru! Happy New Year! Fireworks and Firecrackers are legal here during new years, and it's pretty much a free-for-all. I celebrated with a Balinese friend and his friends in the city and it was wild! Lighting firecrackers, the streets packed with people, and fireworks going off all over the place.


Selamat Ulang Tahun! Potong Kue-nya!! January 5th was my 21st birthday. The Saturday before my birthday me and Lindsay and Melissa went Whitewater rafting and the rode an elephant. So much fun. Not something you can really do in Canada for a January Birthday! On the day of my birthday we had a get together at one of my favorite restaurants. It was great fun.


So back to work now...